A Guide To Buying An Affordable Watch
- Cyril paul
- Nov 11, 2023
- 6 min read
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Whether for yourself or someone else. You may have realized, navigating through sizes, styles, materials, and brands can be challenging.
Don't worry; you're in the right spot! In this guide, I'll swiftly cover essential aspects to consider before purchasing a classic watch, helping you avoid ending up with a subpar choice.
Note, we're focusing on traditional watches. Let's kick off with a pivotal factor: the Heart, ie, The Movement.
MOVEMENTS
The movement, akin to a watch's engine or 'heart,' powers the timepiece.
There are three key types to be aware of:
Almost all traditional wristwatches feature one of these movements or a variation thereof.
QUARTZ
Quartz movements, prevalent in entry-level watches, operate as miniature electrical circuits powered by a battery.
These circuits incorporate a small piece of quartz, which vibrates at a high frequency when subjected to an electric current. Subsequently, other components in the movement convert these vibrations into a single pulse per second, evident in the ticking of analog quartz watches' second hands. This technology is found in various watches, such as those by Duke Chronograph [Check Price] and the Casio A171. Digital and solar watches utilize adapted versions of the same quartz technology, sharing similar advantages and disadvantages.
Quartz movements offer enhanced accuracy compared to mechanical counterparts, with lower production costs. They demand minimal maintenance due to their simplicity, running until the battery needs replacement.
Consequently, quartz watches are ideal for manual labor or environments requiring precise timekeeping.
Despite their advantages, some drawbacks include audible ticking noise and occasional misalignment of second hands with markers, albeit minor inconveniences
MECHANICAL
Mechanical watches, representing the traditional craftsmanship of timepieces, utilize intricate arrangements of gears and springs to function. The term 'mechanical movement' broadly encompasses watches employing clockwork mechanisms for timekeeping, relying on manual power input from the user due to the technology predating affordable consumer batteries.
Hand-Wind Movement:
The 'mechanical' designation in product listings often refers to 'hand-wound' mechanical movements. Users manually wind these watches by rotating the crown, tightening the mainspring. The mainspring gradually unwinds, transferring accumulated energy through gears. Watches with different movements specify power reserve durations, indicating when winding is required. Once a watch has fully depleted its power reserve, winding and time resetting restart its operation.
Automatic Movement:
A modern variation, automatic movements incorporate rotating-weight mechanisms like the ones dipicted below from a AVI-8 Spitfire Automatic [Check Price]. The mechanisms enable winding through the natural motion of the wearer's wrist.
Many automatic movements offer the option of hand-winding, but the self-winding rotor reduces the necessity for regular winding when the watch is consistently worn.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT KIND OF MOVEMENT
If you prioritize practicality and low maintenance, Quartz watches are a smart choice. Some offer additional features, catering to specific needs. They are straightforward, though typically without extravagant features.
For those seeking a classier, more refined option suitable for special occasions, mechanical watches are worth considering. Automatic watches, in particular, serve as an entry point, operating seamlessly without intricate adjustments. The wearer charges the watch naturally through regular use.
Both mechanical options boast a smooth, sweeping second-hand motion, providing a visually pleasing experience and conveying a sense of higher quality due to increased weight. While such movements are rare in quartz watches, they do exist.
If the watch serves a primarily aesthetic purpose and timekeeping relies on a smartphone, a mechanical watch offers a more graceful and stylish sweep.
It's important to note that the intricate production process makes mechanical watches generally more expensive than their quartz counterparts.
The AVI-8 Spitfire Chronograph with a Meca-Quartz Movement [Check Price]
The AVI-8 Hawker Hunter with a Japanese Automatic Movement [Check Price]
MATERIALS
The composition of watches, focusing on two primary components:
The Case and The Crystal.
The Case, serving as the primary housing, is typically crafted from metal.
Contrastingly, the Crystal, a transparent glass-like cover over the dial, adds an aesthetic and protective element.
The quality of these components significantly influences a watch's susceptibility to damage.
In the realm of lower-end watches, cases commonly feature materials such as resin (plastic), brass, or zinc alloy. Resin watches, exemplified by Casios or G-Shocks, are lightweight and resilient to impacts but tend to scratch easily.
Chromed brass and non-steel alloys are occasionally employed as budget-friendly alternatives to stainless steel. Despite offering increased weight for a perception of higher quality, these materials lack the ruggedness and durability of steel. Any chrome plating may degrade over time, rendering these watches less future-proof. Preferably, opting for resin or steel is advisable.
The industry standard above the $50 mark is 316L stainless steel, known for good corrosion resistance and durability. While some brands emphasize it as an exclusive miracle metal, its qualities are commendable but not unique.
Various stainless steel grades, such as the inferior 304L and the Rolex-preferred 904L, coexist in the watch world. Additionally, rarer materials like ceramic, bronze, and lightweight titanium offer exotic alternatives. Steel remains the predominant choice in retail settings.
WATCH CRYSTAL
Three primary types of watch crystals exist: acrylic, mineral, and sapphire.
Acrylic (Hesalite or Plexiglass)
This crystal, is essentially domed plastic. While notably prone to scratches, it is cost-effective to produce. Some brands favor acrylic due to its malleability, allowing for significant doming at a low cost, coupled with shatter-resistant qualities.
Mineral Glass
Positioned between acrylic and sapphire, mineral glass is akin to household window glass. While providing better scratch resistance than acrylic, it falls short of top-tier performance. Some brands offer hardened versions under various names, often lacking direct labeling as acrylic, mineral, or sapphire, potentially employing gimmicky branding.
Sapphire Crystal
Widely regarded as the most desirable in watchmaking, sapphire crystal boasts superior scratch resistance. Despite being the most expensive to produce, it can only be damaged by diamonds or substantial impacts that might shatter it.
Additionally, there are raised or domed variations of these crystals purely for aesthetic reasons, lacking tangible performance benefits. In most cases, prioritizing higher scratch resistance is advisable.
WATER RESISTANCE
An essential factor to consider is the water resistance of a watch, indicating its ability to remain sealed against water. Typically measured in ATM, bar, or meters, these units denote different pressure levels.
Understanding the equivalencies is straightforward: 1 bar is approximately equal to 1 ATM and 10 meters. Therefore, a 5-bar rating aligns with 5 ATM or 50m, and a 10-bar rating is akin to 10 ATM or 100m.
Higher designations signify superior water resistance, determined through static pressure leakage tests in controlled environments at the manufacturing stage. However, these ratings may not fully reflect real-world scenarios. For instance, a 3 ATM watch, seemingly suitable for swimming with 30m water resistance on paper, may not withstand the dynamic stresses of water pressure during motion.
For swimming activities, a watch with a minimum of 10 bar, 10 ATM, or 100m water resistance is recommended. Anything below this is essentially splash-resistant and may tolerate temporary submersion but shouldn't be exposed to water for extended periods, unless it's a dress watch not intended for aquatic use.
Caution is advised regarding water resistance claims from lesser-known Chinese brands, as these may lack ISO vetting. For scuba diving, it's prudent to choose reputable brands within the industry.
CRAFTSMANSHIP AND QUALITY ASSESSMENT
While specifications provide valuable information, they only reveal part of a watch's overall quality.
The challenge lies in avoiding the temptation to merely incorporate a checklist of components at a low cost, which might seem impressive on paper but often results in a visually inferior product. This is where the significance of finishing comes into play—the meticulous execution of brushing, polishing, and craftsmanship that defines the fit and overall appearance of the watch.
For instance, a poorly finished watch with fixed end links and a basic fashion watch may exemplify low-quality timepieces with generic markers and simplistic shapes, appearing rudimentary upon closer scrutiny. These watches typically feature a uniform finishing, easy to mass-produce.
In contrast, high-quality watches undergo meticulous work on specific components, steering away from off-the-shelf elements. This entails the creation of custom shapes, varied textures across surfaces, and precise detailing of text and logos. The AVI-8 Flyboy serves as an example of an affordably priced yet impressively detailed limited edition watch [Check Price], showcasing the elevated standard achievable with dedicated craftsmanship.
DETERMINING VALUE IN WATCH
Now, onto the significant inquiry: What is the appropriate expenditure for acquiring a quality watch?
An amusing yet substantial question, as this matter perennially sparks debates. The answer hinges significantly on personal preferences.
In attempting to provide guidance, considering the average cost of a watch that should generally satisfy most individuals, assuming the considerations outlined in the preceding sections have been taken into account.
For those on a budget, a prudent choice would be a resin Casio or a super-budget field watch from Lorus, both offering commendable quality for the price.
To play it safe, I suggest a minimum expenditure of approximately £60 for a steel quartz watch and around £100 for an automatic one in the UK.
The optimal price range falls between $200 and $300, where you strike a balance before experiencing diminishing returns. A well-chosen $250 watch within this range is likely to impress most recipients.
As a point of reference, delving beyond the $1000 threshold often means paying for brand recognition and prestige rather than a substantial improvement in build quality. Finer details discernible under a microscope, a tool not commonly carried in one's back pocket, become the focus. Notably, prices in the US are generally lower than in Europe and other developed nations, with an approximate 10% adjustment required for accurate figures outside the United States.
It's crucial to bear in mind that while price is a factor, it is just one among several considerations when selecting a timepiece.
FAQ
What Type of Watch Movment Should I choose?
Quartz movements are the most common among entry-level watches
Mechanical, Hand-Wound or Automatic movements if you are looking for something that looks and feels classier, for special occasions or as a reward
Which is the best glass for a watch?
How much is a reasonalbe about to pay for a watch?
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